Each fiber has its own story—from the enduring, breathable qualities of cotton to the luxurious softness of cashmere. When choosing yarn or fabric for clothing, accessories, or the home, the type of fiber used plays a crucial role in informing comfort, performance, and longevity. 

Some fibers offer softness and warmth, while others are more durable, cost-effective, or environmentally friendly. Whether crafted from natural materials grown on farms or synthetic fibers engineered in laboratories, each fiber has distinct advantages and trade-offs. 

This guide delves into six key fiber types—cotton, alpaca, wool, cashmere, polyester, and acrylic—exploring their characteristics, quality grades, ethical concerns, sustainability impact, and how they drape in finished garments. 

Cotton

Cotton is one of the most popular natural fibers, celebrated for its softness, breathability, and versatility. Derived from the cotton plant, it is hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin, making it an ideal choice for everyday clothing and bedding. 

Cotton has moderate drape, with variations depending on weave and processing. Lightweight cottons like voile drape more fluidly, while heavier ones like denim are more structured. Cotton fibers are known for their durability and excellent moisture absorption, which keeps you cool and comfortable in warmer weather. Moreover, its ability to blend well with other fibers further enhances its range of applications, from casual wear to high-end fashion.

Conventional cotton farming is resource-intensive, requiring large amounts of water and pesticides and contributing to environmental degradation. Organic cotton is a more sustainable option, promoting soil health and biodiversity without synthetic chemicals. However, cotton farming still has social concerns, including labor exploitation and fair wages.

Grades

• Extra-Long Staple (ELS) Cotton – The highest quality, including Pima and Egyptian cotton (staple length over 34mm), soft, strong, and durable.
• Long Staple Cotton – Slightly shorter (26-34mm), still high-quality but not as luxurious as ELS.
• Medium Staple Cotton – Commonly used in standard clothing and sheets, durable but less soft (21-25mm).
• Short Staple Cotton – less than 21mm – used for budget-friendly fabrics, rougher and less durable.

Alpaca

Alpaca fiber is prized for its luxurious feel and remarkable warmth. Wool fibers, including sheep’s wool, alpaca, and cashmere, trap air, making garments warm in winter while allowing moisture to escape. In other words, wearing wool helps people regulate their body temperature when it’s cold.

Lighter and warmer than wool, alpaca is hypoallergenic because it lacks the lanolin found in sheep’s wool, reducing the risk of irritation for sensitive skin. Alpaca fabric has a luxurious, fluid drape, often heavier than cashmere but lighter than sheep’s wool, making it ideal for elegant scarves and soft knitwear. Its naturally silky texture and lustrous appearance make it a favorite for high-quality knitwear and accessories. 

Alpaca farming is considered sustainable because alpacas have a low environmental impact. They graze without destroying root systems and require less water than other livestock. Ethical concerns mainly revolve around responsible shearing practices and the fair treatment of workers in South America, where much of the world’s alpaca wool is produced.

Grades

• Royal Alpaca – 18 microns or less, incredibly soft and luxurious.
• Baby Alpaca – 19-22.5 microns; Slightly less fine than Royal Alpaca.
• Superfine Alpaca – 23-26.9 microns, a balance of softness and durability.
• Alpaca Wool – 27 microns or more, coarser and more durable, often used for outerwear and blankets.

Sheep’s Wool

Wool has been a staple in textile production for centuries. Sheep wool is renowned for its excellent insulation properties and natural moisture-wicking abilities. 

Wool varies widely in drape; fine merino wool is soft and fluid, while thicker wool types like tweed are stiffer and more structured. Modern variants like merino wool offer finer textures that reduce itchiness while maintaining the classic benefits of wool. Wool works well whether it’s used in sweaters, blankets, or outerwear, wool continues to be appreciated for its durability and functional performance.

Sustainable wool production requires ethical shearing practices and humane animal treatment. Issues such as mulesing (a painful procedure to prevent flystrike in sheep) have led to concerns over animal welfare, which is why some brands advertise their wool as being “mulesing free.” Ethical wool certifications, like RWS (Responsible Wool Standard), help ensure humane treatment.

Grades

• Super 180s-250s – 11-14 microns, incredibly soft and rare, used in luxury suiting.
• Super 150s-180s – 14-16 microns, very soft with a smooth texture.
• Super 100s-140s – 16-18 microns, durable and commonly used for premium suits. Merino wool ranges from ultrafine (less than 17 microns) to strong (over 25 microns)
• Standard Wool (Below Super 100s) – Over 18 microns – Coarser and more affordable, used for everyday clothing, blankets, and rugs.

Cashmere

Cashmere is synonymous with luxury, offering a softness and warmth that is hard to match. Harvested from cashmere goats, this fiber is incredibly fine and lightweight, yet exceptionally insulating. Its plush texture makes it highly sought after for scarves, sweaters, and other premium garments. 

Cashmere has a fluid, elegant drape, making it ideal for high-end garments and accessories. Due to its delicate nature, cashmere requires special care and is often more expensive than other fibers. However, its unique combination of softness, warmth, and elegance justifies the investment for many fashion enthusiasts.

High demand for cashmere has led to overgrazing in Mongolia and China, causing desertification. Sustainable cashmere initiatives focus on ethical sourcing, responsible herding practices, and fair wages for herders.

Grades

• Grade A – Finest quality, with fibers as thin as 14-16 microns and long (34-36mm), making it the softest and most durable.
  
• Grade B – Slightly coarser (17-19 microns), still soft but less luxurious and warm than Grade A.
  
• Grade C – The thickest (over 19 microns), rougher, and less soft; usually used for blended fabrics.

Polyester

Polyester is a synthetic fiber known for its strength, durability, and resistance to wrinkles and shrinking. It is highly versatile and often blended with natural fibers to enhance fabric performance. 

Polyester fabrics can vary significantly; lightweight polyesters mimic silk’s drape, while heavier ones hold more structure. While it excels in durability and maintenance, polyester lacks some of the breathability and softness of natural fibers. Advances in textile technology, though, have led to higher-quality polyester fabrics that closely mimic the properties of natural materials. 

While it’s often used in clothing, polyester is petroleum-based, contributing to environmental pollution and microplastic shedding. Using recycled polyester can mitigate a portion of its environmental impact.

Acrylic

Acrylic is another synthetic fiber, often used as a substitute for wool due to its similar texture and warmth. Lightweight and resistant to moths and mildew, acrylic is also known for its vibrant color retention and ease of care. 

Acrylic has a structured drape, similar to wool but less fluid than cashmere or alpaca. While it offers excellent insulation and is generally more affordable than natural fibers, it can sometimes be prone to pilling and may not breathe as well as cotton or wool. Acrylic’s affordability and versatility make it a common choice for art projects and upholstery.

While it may be an affordable option, like polyester, acrylic is derived from fossil fuels and sheds microplastics, raising concerns about its environmental impact.

Find Your Fiber

By understanding the unique properties of these fibers, you can make more informed decisions about the textiles you choose. Hate The Cold offers yarn and knitwear made with a variety of natural fibers so you can select the right material, whether you’re looking for creative projects or personal comfort.