Minimalist Scarf Pattern

Minimalist Scarf Pattern

This pattern illustrates how to make a simple, adult-sized, double-knit scarf using three skeins of fingering-weight yarn. You'll do a circular cast-on with the machine, double-knit through all three skeins, and then do a circular cast-off by weaving in the ends. To finish up, I'll explain how to weave in the ends and wash your scarf to make it as soft as possible.

This is a great beginner pattern for anyone using a Passap Duomatic 80.

You can also make a smaller version of this scarf using two skeins instead of three by doing 35 needles up on both sides of 40 (70 needles on the front, 70 needles on the back). It still takes roughly 660 rows and comes out to roughly 8"x60".

The Project

  • Finished Size: 10.5"x60"
  • Total Yardage: Approximately 1290 yards

The Yarn

  • Three skeins of fingering-weight, non-superwash merino or alpaca
  • Yardage: 430 yards per 100g skein

Cast-on

  • Handle down
  • Tension at 2 on both sides, N/N, orange strippers
  • 40 needles up on both sides of 0 (80 needles on the front, 80 needles on the back). Make sure to observe the needle rule, meaning the last needle on the back bed is on the right side of the last needle on the front bed. Place the edge springs over the needles on both ends of each bed and raise the needles to make sure their latches are closed.

  • Knit 1 to the left
  • Tension at 3 on both sides, X/X
  • Knit 2 rows (1 to the right, 1 to the left)
  • If using 100% Alpaca: Tension at 3.5 on both sides, N/N
  • If using 100% Merino: Tension at 4 on both sides, N/N
  • Knit 1 row
  • Carefully insert your weight hanger and hang your weights on it

Double-Knit

  • Continue knitting roughly 650 rows. Each skein should provide about 220 rows. When you're close to the end of a cone, let the end hang off one end of your knitting, thread a new cone, and continue knitting. Be careful when placing the eyelet in the lock - make sure it's inserted correctly, or you might drop stitches. You'll also need to remove the weights and the weight hanger and re-insert it roughly each time you switch to a new cone.

Cast-off

  • Keep an eye on the last cone and stop when you have 4-5 rows of yarn left, or you can just stop around row 600.
  • Tension at 3.5 on both sides, X/X
  • Knit 2 rows. It doesn't matter what side you end on but I'm right-handed, so I find it easier to end on the right because that allows me to finish the scarf from right to left.
  • Cut the yarn, leaving approximately three times the width of the needles you have raised on your machine.
  • Thread the yarn in your double eyelet tool, remove the edge springs from the side the yarn is on, and take off the stitch opposite from the bed you ended on. If you stopped at the far right of the back bed, the first stitch you should remove is the one on the far right of the front bed. Next, remove the first stitch on the same side of the back bed. Continue removing stitches, alternating between the front and back bed, until you reach the end.
    • How to pull the stitches off: Hold the end of the double eyelet tool you've threaded your yarn through. Using the free end, pull the needle up until the stitch goes past the open latch. Then, push the needle down so the stitch goes over the needle and onto the double eyelet tool. Grab the free end of the eyelet tool (that now has a stitch on it) with your other hand and pull your yarn end all the way through the stitch. Hold the yarn with your other hand so it doesn't get caught in the stitch.
  • Weave in your ends

Hand Knitting

The scarf is a circular cast-on, a bunch of rows of double-knit, and a circular cast-off.

  • Alpaca

The gauge for machine knitting is 35sts x 38 rows over 4 inches at 3.5.

The suggested gauge for hand knitting is 32sts x 40 rows over 4 inches on 3.25mm (US3) needles, so 10.5"x60" comes out to 84 sts x 600 rows.

  • Merino

The gauge for machine knitting is 35sts x 38 rows over 4 inches at 4.

The suggested gauge for hand knitting is 28sts x 36 rows over 4 inches on 3.25mm (US 3) needles, so 10.5"x60" comes out to 74 sts x 540 rows.

(optional) Striping

You can make stripes as wide or narrow as you like but I find it helps to see an example before deciding how to make stripes. The scarves pictured start with 50 rows of one color and then alternate between 75 rows of each color. I prefer not to start or end on a solid block (of 75 rows) because stripes create a sense of movement, and having a solid block on one or both ends dulls that effect.

Blocking and Washing

The finished scarf will be stretched out in the places where you hung your weight hanger. You can block it by soaking it in lukewarm water for twenty to thirty minutes. If you want to wash it while blocking, you can do that as well.

Regular blue Dawn is a good choice, or if you're using merino and want to go the extra mile, find a wool wash containing lanolin, which is an oil that helps wool maintain its insulating properties.

If the wool you're using is a bit itchy or you just want to get it as soft as possible, get a bottle of the cheapest hair conditioner you can find. We're talking the $1 or $2 bottles, here. After washing the scarf, refill your container with lukewarm water, squeeze about 1/3 of the bottle of conditioner in, and massage the conditioner into the scarf. Let it sit for 30 minutes, rinse it out, and you're ready to let it dry.

When the scarf is saturated with water, remove the scarf, wring it out, and then roll it between a couple of towels and squeeze it so the towel will soak up some of the water. Then lay the scarf flat and let it dry for 24-48 hours.

Questions?

Hit me up! ilovebeingwarm@gmail.com or @hatethecold_ on Instagram.

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